The Black Isle and coastal villages
LEJOG Days 65-68
We now embarked upon the John O'Groats trail from Inverness. I had heard that it is "in development" and has many obstacles including barbed wire fences to jump, rivers to ford and long grass to push through. The only alternative is the A9, busy with NC500 traffic and largely without pavements. From here onwards I would be at the most northerly point I had ever been.
After a final visit to Cotswold, we turned onto the mile-long Kessock Bridge to the Black Isle. At this moment the heavens opened, and with no shelter whatsoever we got thoroughly wet, but once we had turned onto minor roads the weather improved. Woodland dominated the scenery. We stopped to eat at Culbokie and encountered a Scouser and a Scotsman coming the other way, who gave some helpful advice. Next was the even longer bridge across the Cromarty Firth, where the main challenge was a strong sidewind. We camped at an excellent caravan park at Evanton, alongside some LEJOG cyclists.
The next day was very pleasant (if long), passing through lovely towns and villages including Alness and Tain. I had been expecting very sleepy villages and hamlets up here but in fact there are thriving communities along the coast with interesting architecture and lots to do. We passed the Glenmorangie distillery and camped at Tarlogie; a nice site but on a very narrow strip between road and railway.
We crossed the Dornoch Firth Bridge and reached the coast proper, north of Dornoch, past golf courses, caravan parks and Grand Designs-style homes, and then came inland around Loch Fleet. Confusing waymarking led to us taking the A9 for longer than planned, and then a pleasant walk through Sutherland Estate forestry land to Golspie and a wildcamp spot past the fairytale castle at Dunrobin.
After a wet night, grey seals were sunbathing on the rocks, waking us up with their contented grunts. Oyster catchers marched across the sand. A few miles further took us to the village of Brora with a stunning coastal view, and then a long trek along idyllic sandy beaches and less appealing farmland to Helmsdale hostel.